Billingsgate, Britain’s biggest inland fish market, is a slice of old London whose values and traditions are as ancient as the city itself.
But as London changes, the market must adapt to the changing tastes of the City’s people to avoid being left behind.
These are tough times for Billingsgate’s fish merchants. Dwindling fish stocks, the rise of supermarkets, and a deep recession mean making money is harder than ever.
Many merchants, along with the market’s owners, believe that Billingsgate must modernise, threatening its age-old traditions. The job of the iconic licensed fish porter, once a job for life, could be thrown open to all comers.
London’s oldest wholesale market is facing its biggest change in over a thousand years. The market is divided. Will ancient custom or modern commerce win out?